From AEro we took the ferry to Mommark on the mainland. We had lunch at the Colisseum restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. It is on the wharf with a great view of the river and we enjoyed their excellent salmon and pancakes.

A ship in the middle of the river started to emit smoke and the fire boat raced up and trained hoses on it while the crew of the ship jumped into the water and were rescued. It was some time before we realized it was the regular fire drill.

The accommodation was another worker's cottage attached to a massive manor house.

The manor house itself was owned by a young couple with two toddlers. It was badly run down and they were renovating it. Given the size of the rooms and the state of the interior they were certainly brave.

The setting was magnificent, with a duck pond outside our window. The house was on the road to a small car ferry to the island of Als and so we spent the next day touring Als.

We had decided to treat ourselves to the accommodation and meal package at the exclusive and rather famous Schackenborg hotel. It is highly recommended in the Lonely Planet, the restaurant is renowned for gourmet food and the rooms were decorated by Princess Alexandra.

We arrived rather grubby and tired after 100km against a headwind. Despite its reputation the room we were shown was disappointing and Margaret asked if they had anything better. This was clearly not a question scruffy cyclists were supposed to ask and the attitude changed from snooty to frigid.

The relationship obviously wasn't going to work so we cycled back to Tonder, found an apartment more suited to our station and ate a modest meal at a restaurant in the torvet.