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Helsingor, Hamlet
Koge, Feddet
Faaborg, AEro


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DENMARK 2005: Trip Report


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We spent the day touring the western half of Mon arriving at our accommodation fairly early. The apartment was rather rough and ready, but clean with a nice old lady running it.

Chatting to her we mentioned that we were planning to take the ferry from Nyby to the island of Faster the next day, she told us that it was summer service only, and it finished that day. If we had packed up and left we could have just made the last ferry but we had already unpacked and were reluctant to change our plans so we hoped she was mistaken, or there was an alternative. The cycle tour guide book said nothing about summer service.

When we got to the ferry landing we found the old lady had been correct. We cycled to the bridge at Faro but it was a freeway with strictly no cycling. A detour to avoid it would have added over fifty kilometers on busy roads.

There was a bus stop near the freeway entrance but we couldn't understand the Sunday timetable. After a couple of hours a bus came along. We had heard that buses were bicycle friendly but in fact there was little room to store them. Luckily the storage locker was otherwise empty and the driver did, rather begrudgingly, squeeze them in. The bus took us to Vordingborg where there was a bridge with a bicycle path.

We arrived tired and late at the accommodation. A stunning thatched cottage, charming in every way.

The owners had retired from Copenhagen and renovated the old farmhouse. It was the traditional construction of heavy wooden beams with the spaces between the beams in-filled with bricks, and a thatched roof. The owners had taken it back to the beams and completely rebuilt it.


There was nowhere to eat nearby, and with all the delays and detours we hadn't been able to buy food. We asked if we could get a taxi to a restaurant, but the hosts insisted on organizing a neighbor to ferry us there and pick us up after we had finished. It was a round trip of about 30km, and the neighbor would only accept 'petrol money'.

We decided to have breakfast at the apartment. It was superb, a table groaning with ham, cheese, breads, jams; enough to keep us going for a week.

It was a long day to Kappel it was hot and there was a strong headwind. We had trouble finding the accommodation and went quite a few kilometers out of our way.

When we eventually found the accommodation, it was a large manor house in the middle of nowhere, deserted apart from the owner.

It wasn't what we had been led to expect when we booked it and the owner seemed rather sinister. We thought about horror movies that started in a similar way, so when he left we quickly repacked and pedaled as fast as we could the 10km or so to the town of Nakskov.

It was late and dark by that stage and the only option was a hotel. This gave us our first experience of Danish hotels. It was acceptable, but very expensive for what it was and didn't have the facilities we would normally expect such as a phone and coffee making equipment.
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